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Aug. 13th, 2008

poverty jetset

Grand Canyon...it's big.

Having arrived safely in Greensboro, it's possible to relax and write this on a real computer, rather than glorified airport vending machines! So, hopefully the spelling will iron itself out a little!

As one of the seven wonders of the natural world the Grand Canyon is an awesome sight to behold. It kind of creeps up on you as you approach because unlike other natural wonders it doesn't loom off in the distance. Mainly because it's a big hole in the ground.

When we were near enough our tour leader, Molly, pulled into the car park and led us all to the edge. We walked, with our eyes closed, in single file and on the count of three opened them. The effect is outstanding but incredibly difficult to comprehend. Without exploring the big ditch itself it's easy to let the view wash over you. The average visitor only spends a couple of hours here which is a real shame.

We were eager to get down into the canyon but we first headed to the campsite and got prepared for the third sunset of the trip. At 5am we dashed to edge and drank in the view. The scale can't really be described but as the sun came up we peered over to see where we would be heading that day.

Our aim was to make it to Plateau Point, past what is known as the Indian Garden a little nook that has some shade and enough water to support a lush little forest. The point is an exposed outcropping about a mile long. To reach it you have to climb down 3000 feet and then out to the plateau itself. It takes about 3 hours to get there and about 5 or 6 to get back. It's kinda like climbing a mountain in reverse and it plays havoc with you knees!

As you descend you begin to assimilate all the information that is being presented to you. The stripes on the rocks represent eons of time and erosion and, though they're not really sure exactly how it was formed, you can see the paths carved by glaciers and rivers over time. The current theory is that the Canyon was once part of the sea bed as there is an incredible concentration of fossils on the south rim. Tectonic shifts during the very creation of the continents forced the sea bed up and created a flat top mountain. From here, it's anyones guess as to how the river managed to flow in and freeze such a large mass, though it's clearly apparent that it did.

The hike itself was easier than we expected. We had built it up to be mammoth expedition in over 40 degree heat. As such we were packing nearly three gallons of water. Once again we encountered many, many morons who thought they could make with a pair of old trainers and an apple. We saw three chaps, with the office spread, waddling their way in with 330ml bottle of water between the three of them. The rangers have to rescue around 300 people per day for heat exhaustion and more people die here than in any other national park. Indeed some poor soul fell into the canyon on the day were there. It took the rescue teams some 4 hours to recover the body. Apparently he lost his footing... yikes.

On our day, it was fairly overcast in the afternoon so the heat wasn't as horrific as it could have been, touching the high thirties. We made good time and I think we could have added five hours onto our day and made it to the canyon floor. There is a collection of buildings called the Phantom Ranch that were built by the C.C.C, a volunteer conservation force launched by Roosevelt in the 30's to help pull the country out of the great depression. Very soviet looking posters I might add. Its operated as a kind of little bunk house now but you need a permit to even consider making it that far and it's a four month application process.

On the ascent we were even mildly disappointed with the ease we tackled the well know 'Heart Attack Hill' that makes up the final mile and half. I secretly think we were just gutted to be on our last walking day.

The view point is incredible; resting about halfway down the canyon. It looks out over the torrent of the Colorado river as it rips it's way through the landscape. Turning round you see the sheer face of the canyon wall... and realise that you have to climb back up. We rested for a little while and gasped as the condors swooped just meters overhead. They were so close that you could read the numbers on the tags on their wings. It must be noted that these are incredibly ugly birds! For all their grace, size and fiercely endangered status they look like a cross between a seagull, a turkey vulture and a old man.

Massive, but.

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